What was I thinking? The wind came out of Alberta, picking up a bad attitude as it crossed the plains and barreled across Lake Michigan. Snow fell. Snow flew. Snow blew sideways across the ribbon roads. I was on Kidder Road headed over to the ale brewing workshop at Wagbo (properly the Martha Wagbo Farm and Education Center). It’s one of my favorite drives, very picturesque. No photos for you, though. By the time it dawned on me that I had made a serious error in judgment, it was all white-knuckle all the way. No stopping, no going back, quantities of steely determination. You know who else was on the road? Snowmobilers and tow-truck drivers hauling the mute evidence that other idiots had been there before me. No pictures of them either.
I crept down the double-S turns from the crest of Kidder to the nice broad valley of M-66 and started to breathe again. I was at least half an hour late, but I could learn something about brewing ale and it would be warm and safe inside. And so I did and so it was. And I have a whole slideshow for you! While that loads . . .
Keith and Jason and Fischer, our guides for the afternoon, were well into the explanations of wort and bittering and heather tips and pitch yeast and measuring specific gravity with a hydrometer, with frequent digressions into the Importance of Cleanliness. The little upstairs kitchen at Wagbo was pleasantly steamy and full of intrepid souls. All of them had done their homework. They were asking excellent questions. I was basking in the thrill of being alive in a warm place filled with the fragrance of hops. They learned how to make ale. I learned other things:
- The history of Scotland’s heather ale goes back at least to the time of the Roman occupation, when the Picts gave the Legions what-for. So yes, a 21st century person ought to be able to make a decent batch at home without killing herself. Nevertheless, I should probably leave the ale-brewing to people who have more patience for frequent two-step cleaning processes.
- There are those who practice brewing as a culinary art and those who think of it as a scientific process. The two groups collaborate perfectly happily, to their mutual benefit. If they are from Around Here, they hang out at Short’s, as is proper, swapping recipes and lessons learned the hard way.
- With a little practice, you can make two cases of very good beer for $20-$30 total. That is a very favorable price.
- Someone I knew used to say that beer is just liquid bread, and it turns out he was right about that, too. In both enterprises, blessed little yeast plants work away, turning carbohydrates into alcohol and carbon dioxide. When their work is done . . . they die. Food for thought.
- Gentle, heather-scented steam from a batch of brewing ale is an excellent facial.
- Responsible brewers must carefully sample and test the batch at numerous stages along the way, just as you are duty-bound to taste the cookie dough.
- To chill the wort to proper fermenting temperature, plop the covered 5-gallon fermenting vessel (i.e., the cleaned and sanitized food-grade plastic pail) into the snow pile on the flat roof. If you are trying to brew ale in tropical climes, you will have to invest in a lot of ice. We feel sorry for you.
- There are as many recipes for fine ale as there are for any other good thing that people have been making for centuries.
- If you ask Fischer where you should begin, he will hand you a dog-eared copy of his beloved Sacred and Herbal Healing Beers and say “On page 1.”
- I conclude that I do not need to brew my own beer any more than I need to slaughter my own hog, but it is good to have some understanding of how it works. There are things I do know how to do, and I can trade those for excellent treats. Once upon a time . . .
I’m pretty sure the slideshow is loaded now.
I did not stay for the mead-making workshop as I still had to face the long trek back home and the weather wasn’t getting any better. I did have a wee sample, though, and heard a little not only about fermenting honey into mead, but about making a fermented cider from Antrim County apples and Antrim County maple syrup. Then I plotted my course back along Essex Road and made the 30-minute trip in less than an hour and a half.
I picked up a copy of the holiday edition of Edible Grande Traverse magazine at Wagbo. Nels Veliquette has a good piece in there about growing organic hops out on the Leelanau Peninsula, and Susan Ager’s cover story about her mother’s pierogi will just make you happy. You can pick up a free copy of the magazine at specialty markets throughout the region, or you can read it online. (Um, it will take a long time to load the magazine if you are on sloooow dialup, but it is worth it if that is the only way you are going to be able to read it.)
Wendi
January 16, 2011
Thanks for that post. I have been very excited to read about this! Glad that you made it home safely. Those roads were very nasty!
Gerry
January 16, 2011
They were, they were! I was a complete idiot to drive across the Kidder Road hogback. Glad you liked the post.
Fee
January 16, 2011
Glad you made it home safely, Gerry.
I can’t resist saying that heather ale may well have been the reason the Picts gave the legions what-for!
Gerry
January 16, 2011
I suspected as much! Fischer told us, too, that the Picts were tiny but fierce–I thought of you at once–and made me feel as if I should go off and study medieval history at once. Then he gave each of us a sample of the Fraoch. Excellent treat.
P.j. grath
January 16, 2011
We’ve all had drives like that, and if we’re lucky we get home to tell the story. They are the drives we wouldn’t have set out on, had we known the frightening reality in store, but then we’re glad, too, that we got out and had the wonderful experience. At least, I think you are. Am I right?
Edible Grande Traverse can be picked up in many surprising places. For instance, it’s a great favorite at Dog Ears Books in Northport, where some people pick up more than one, taking the extras to share with friends. It’s the kind of word you want to get around as widely as possible.
Gerry
January 16, 2011
You are right, but I hope I’ll have the brains to take the sensible route in the future!
It is surprising that bookstores display free publications. Of course, it’s surprising that free magazines exist, too. Taken altogether, the world is full of surprises. Now I’m going to go fix my spelling error.
uphilldowndale
January 16, 2011
Phe, glad you are home safe and sound. With ale and a tale.
Gerry
January 16, 2011
Thank you. Several tails, actually.
Anna
January 16, 2011
Whew! Glad you made it safely on your drive, Gerry! What very interesting photos and post! Love the red barn in the snowstorm! Rabbit pellets??? I didn’t know beer was likened to liquid bread. LOL I’ve toured brewery’s before (St. Louis-Anheuser-Busch) and the smell… liquid bread! And a book on Sacred and Healing Herbal Beers, I didn’t know that either!
Gerry
January 16, 2011
OK, first, thank you. Then–rabbit pellets as in feed, not as in, er, post-feeding. The fragrance in the workshop was nothing remotely like the Anheuser-Busch brewery, although I suppose some might differ. Aroma, like taste, is highly individual! 🙂 I didn’t know about the book, either, but it certainly looks intriguing.
La Mirada Bob
January 16, 2011
I believe this sort of travelogue should come with a “Dad, Do Not Read” subtitle.
We are really glad you made the trip successfully.
We will take a walk around the block on a sunny 80 degree day just for you. Also, I will send Dennis, the Utah member of the beer making gang, the url for your delightful beer story.
Gerry
January 16, 2011
Piece of cake. In retrospect anyway.
I will enjoy the sunny 80, even if only virtually. I had completely forgotten that Dennis brews beer. Dennis is a man of many gifts, all of them splendid. He would enjoy Keith and Jason and Fischer very much.
Dawn
January 16, 2011
Glad you survived your adventure. Love YOUR red barn…and I don’t think I’ve ever seen Michigan hops before…was going to comment on something else but I’ve already forgotten. And I didn’t even get any beer!
Dawn
January 16, 2011
oh yes…I remember Susan Ager…didn’t she used to write a column for the Detroit paper? Does she still? I don’t read the paper anymore..but I remember enjoying her work.
Gerry
January 16, 2011
Susan Ager was indeed a Free Press columnist. She continued to do that for a couple of years after she moved up here. A fine writer.
I’ve never seen any hops other than Michigan hops, except for the rabbit pellet variety, but I expect they’re all similar. Ours, of course, being slightly more fragrant on account of the nearness of white pines and Montmorency cherries . . . No beer and distractible anyway, eh? Probably comes of keeping a dog and a blog. Those factors seem to be responsible for my inability to follow a train of thought into the station.
flandrumhill
January 17, 2011
Those white knuckle escapades are not for the faint of heart.
I’ve never made beer but have made wine for decades. Whether it’s beer, wine or bread, anything made with yeast in the kitchen seems to make a home cosier.
Gerry
January 17, 2011
There speaks experience. It would be interesting to learn more about the white knuckles and the wine. This is the year that Chris Szejbach and I are going to make dandelion wine. Katy Newman says the dandelions that grow at Bay View Farm have never been sprayed, so we’re going to pick them there. We’ll let you know how it goes.
Nye
January 17, 2011
This is quiet an adventure for you, the weather reminds me why I read so much while living up North, and not so much down South. 🙂
I didn’t know that you could use dandelion to make wine, this will be interesting to see.
Gerry
January 18, 2011
People who have had it say that it’s very good. I like dandelions anyway, so I expect to have a good time with the project. So I gather you got a lot of reading done during the first part of this month, eh? 🙂
Alana
January 25, 2011
Gerry, what a lovely report on our workshops at Wagbo. Thank you!
Gerry
January 25, 2011
You are very welcome! It was a fine afternoon. I believe we’ll have to do the sugar bush, too.