Some people get invited to glitzy parties. I, on the other hand, am invited to Experiences. Brad Kik wrote:
Thought you might be interested in an old-fashioned hog slaughter taking place at the Romeyns’ Farm on Monday. Amanda and I asked Ryan not to send our pig to Ebel’s to be processed—instead we’re going to do it ourselves (with a lot of help) . . . . Should be some cool pictures and good stories to come out of this. Hope you can stop by!
I mulled this over and said of course I would come. Then I assembled reinforcements. Babs said of course she would come too. On Monday we presented ourselves at Providence Farm. Do you want to stand around with us and drink coffee and talk about the cold, drizzly day, so ideal for a hog slaughter? No, I thought not. Let’s go down to the pig barn then, shall we?
This is the pig, a Duroc cross I’m told. He is the star of this little drama. You already know that he is a tragic hero. No suspense there.
The supporting cast, from left to right, includes Brad himself, whose job was to dispatch the pig as quickly as possible. His wife Amanda was there with the new baby, Ily. She would take care of the children. Jen Knauf was there to drive the Kubota. Jess Piskor came over from Bare Knuckle Farm in Northport. His job was to open the carotid artery to allow the blood to drain. Still with me? OK. Brad, Jess and Jen would share the work of cleaning the pig and removing the useful organs.
Babs, of course, was there to make photos of all of this. And I was there to write about it and, as it turned out, to weep for the pig. I had decided not to have any breakfast, as I was worried about losing it anyway. In the event, I did not feel queasy. I felt sad.
Brad says his philosophy is that animals raised for meat should have a good, peaceful life with only one bad day. He also thought that if he was going to eat an animal, he ought to be able to face it and take its life himself. That is a philosophy I can grasp. This particular pig had a very good life up on the ridge above Torch Lake. He was well fed, well tended, and given a farewell skritch.
After that it got harder. Brad took his time, wanting to do the job right. One shot, placed just so. You might think that this would be easy. It is not. A person must decide to take a life.
The shot went home, and the pig went down.
Jess moved in to open the artery.
It got harder here. There isn’t any “instant” about dying. It took just under two minutes. There was a fierce pounding of hooves as the pig’s body fought to stay alive. No squealing. Just a sound like a herd of mustangs galloping, galloping across the prairie. Then it was over.
Brad and Jess and Jen gathered around to catch as much blood as they could. Nothing was to be wasted. Brad massaged the body, doing the work of the stilled heart, moving the blood through the veins.
Jen brought the Kubota around, hoisted the pig up and trundled off to the space prepared for the cleaning.
A clean trash can waited, filled with hot water. They hosed off the carcass and lowered it into the hot bath to loosen the hair.
The laborious job of removing all the hair began. It must be done thoroughly or the meat will be off.
After fifteen minutes or so of that, Babs and I went off to Sonny’s for breakfast. I know, I know. I am surprised myself. But I was hungry and in need of a cheerful place. Two hours later we returned, just as the team finished the scraping and shaving.
The next part of the job would require skill and care and a great many sharp implements, but it would be much easier. At this point, you see, the pig seemed less an animal and more meat. I’ll show you the cleaning part tomorrow. [Update: See Bringing home the bacon]
uphilldowndale
November 19, 2010
Most of what is happening here and probably all of your next post, used to take place in our farmhouse kitchen. (In the UK) The hooks are still in the ceiling for hanging up carcase, today only drying laundry hangs from them. It was a long time ago and pigs must have been smaller than you’ve shown us here, our ceilings aren’t very high.
Gerry
November 19, 2010
That’s an interesting thought. A fair number of my Civil War veterans kept pigs and slaughtered them, just as they did everything else for themselves. I think the tradition around here was always to do the processing outdoors over a fire. They’d render the lard and make soap, too. I forgot all about that. I’ll have to ask someone who knows these things how large those 19th century pigs were. This particular pig ran about 200 pounds I believe.
P.j. grath
November 19, 2010
You are very brave, Gerry. You are brave to go to the hog slaughtering and even braver to publish the story on your blog. Well, now I know which of my Leelanau farmer neighbors was over on your side of the Bay and why, and it won’t surprise you at all to know that I was thinking of Jess and Abra and Bare Knuckle Farm the whole time I was reading DEEPLY ROOTED and writing the review for my blog.
That breakfast at Sonny’s—did you have bacon?
I support Jess’s philosophy, that an animal raised for food should only have that one bad day—a couple of bad minutes, really—in its entire life. Death is such a big subject, such a mystery still.
Okay, now you’ve got me THINKING, and where will THAT end this morning? (Wish I knew how to do italics in comments so I didn’t have to resort to these SHOUTS of FULL CAPS!)
P.S. That was a handsome pig.
Gerry
November 19, 2010
I was not brave. I had Babs for the hardest parts, and I knew I would be surrounded by good people who have respect for animals. Lack of fear is not bravery. Going forward in spite of fear is bravery.
Neither one of us had bacon. We both ate with good appetite.
It was a handsome pig. A nice pig.
Cindy Lou
November 19, 2010
Fascinating – though the pictures are a bit overwhelming, it is a necessary part of life. I like that your friends honor and respect the life of the animal. (aside — love the word ‘skritch’!) When I think of all the work these kinds of jobs were back in the day, I’m amazed at the sturdiness of our ancestors!
Gerry
November 19, 2010
I think it was the skritch that pierced my heart.
These kinds of jobs are still a lot of work. We just don’t see them being done. It has become more and more important to me to look squarely at where my food comes from–at its true cost.
I’m growing heartened by the sturdiness of our children!
isathreadsoflife
November 19, 2010
Well, some days are definitely more sad than others… When I think of what goes on in those huge farms – factories rather – where animals are not treated as such (living beings), I see and read that this particular pig had a good life on the farm. As Brad said, his only bad day was his last one. I like how you wrote about this, Gerry, pictures are good too.
Gerry
November 19, 2010
Thank you very much, Isa. I don’t think I could have done this without Babs doing the photos. Too much to think about all at once.
It would be useful to write dispassionately about the industrial food system, but I don’t know if I could summon the strength to do it. Not to mention that I don’t know of a CAFO that would allow me inside.
Andy in Germany
November 20, 2010
Hello from Germany
“…He also thought that if he was going to eat an animal, he ought to be able to face it and take its life himself…”
Oddly I was thinking this today while shopping locally: I’m hoping to start a Permaculture smallholding one day, but I’ve never considered taking on animals because of this side of it. It’s beggining to dawn on me that I can’t eat something which I wouldn’t be able to raise, look after and possibly kill myself. I don’t know what my personal long term solution will be, but today I ended up getting fruit and vegetables.
Gerry
November 20, 2010
There’s a lot to think about, isn’t there–all over the world. And some of it requires intensely personal decisions. Thank you for joining the conversation.
Preston
November 21, 2010
I saw your post the other day but did not have time to respond for I was off to work. However, I thought of the images all day. This is such a hard topic for me because I love animals so much but can’t resist eating meat. Certainly this is the way of life, but geez.. Thank you for the post. Certainly this was a humane situation as compared to the ham I purchased at the grocery store I’m sure. I admire your courage.
Gerry
November 21, 2010
You are welcome for the post Preston. I do think this particular pig had a very good life. I understand your ambivalence completely.